Published on 29 November 2025 by ISAD — School of Design in Milan

The Gyakusou Nike Undercover Lab shop design project represents a bold intersection of high fashion and technical sportswear, conceived as a spatial translation of the collaborative ethos between Nike and Jun Takahashi's Undercover label. Developed within the ISAD School of Design in Milan, this project challenges students to reimagine retail environments not as mere containers for products, but as experiential laboratories where movement, materiality, and brand narrative converge. The result is a concept that dissolves conventional boundaries between store, gallery, and athletic field, inviting visitors to engage with the Gyakusou philosophy on multiple sensory levels.

Conceptual Framework: Running as a Design Methodology

The Gyakusou collection—whose name derives from a Japanese running club and translates roughly to 'running in reverse'—is built on the paradox of urban running: a solitary, meditative act performed within the chaotic fabric of the city. This duality became the project's conceptual anchor. Students were tasked with translating the rhythm of the runner's stride, the breath, and the ever-shifting urban landscape into architectural and interior gestures. Rather than starting with a floor plan, the design process began with a series of movement studies: mapping the trajectories of runners through Milan's streets, recording the cadence of footsteps, and analyzing how light falls on different surfaces at dawn—the preferred training hour for many Gyakusou devotees.

This research produced a set of design principles that prioritized flow over stasis. The shop is conceived not as a series of static displays, but as a continuous circuit where the customer's movement through the space mirrors a run. Corridors widen and narrow like city alleys; display units are angled to create a sense of forward momentum; and the floor itself features subtle gradients that guide the eye and the body. The concept rejects the traditional retail grid in favor of an organic, almost labyrinthine layout that encourages exploration and discovery—much like finding a new route through a familiar neighborhood.

Materiality and Atmosphere: The Urban Runner's Palette

The material palette draws directly from the urban environment and the technical fabrics of the Gyakusou line. Raw concrete, galvanized steel, and perforated aluminum echo the infrastructure of the city—bridges, underpasses, and construction sites—while also referencing the high-performance materials used in Nike's running apparel. These hard, industrial surfaces are contrasted with softer elements: recycled rubber flooring that absorbs sound and provides a slight bounce underfoot, and translucent polycarbonate panels that diffuse light in a way reminiscent of early morning fog.

Lighting plays a crucial role in establishing atmosphere. Rather than uniform illumination, the design employs a system of directional spotlights and linear LED strips that create pools of light and shadow, mimicking the experience of running through the city at dawn or dusk. This chiaroscuro effect not only highlights the products but also creates a sense of intimacy and focus—a nod to the meditative aspect of running. The overall ambiance is cool and slightly austere, yet punctuated by moments of warmth, such as a backlit wall of woven nylon straps that references the lacing systems of running shoes.

The shop is not a destination; it is a starting line. Every element is designed to propel you forward, to make you feel the city beneath your feet even when you're standing still.

Spatial Organization: From Warm-Up to Cool-Down

The layout of the Gyakusou Nike Undercover Lab is organized as a sequence of experiential zones that parallel the phases of a training session. The entry area functions as a 'warm-up' zone: a relatively open, low-stimulation space where visitors can acclimate, view the latest collection on simple steel racks, and orient themselves. Here, the design language is clean and minimal, with a large digital screen displaying looping footage of runners in Tokyo, London, and Milan—establishing the global, urban context of the brand.

Moving deeper into the store, visitors enter the 'performance' zone, where the design intensifies. Display platforms are raised and angled, requiring a slight step up—a physical engagement that mirrors the effort of running. Interactive elements, such as a treadmill integrated into a display plinth, allow customers to test apparel in motion. The fitting rooms are conceived as 'recovery pods': small, acoustically isolated chambers with dimmable lighting and built-in benches, offering a moment of respite. This sequential organization transforms shopping from a passive activity into an active, embodied experience that reinforces the collection's core values.

Display Systems: The Architecture of Movement

Custom display systems were developed to echo the technical precision of the garments themselves. A modular rail system, inspired by the adjustable straps and buckles of running vests, allows for flexible configurations that can be reconfigured to suit different product drops or seasonal changes. The rails are suspended from the ceiling on thin steel cables, creating the illusion that the clothing is floating—an effect that emphasizes the lightweight, aerodynamic qualities of the Gyakusou pieces.

Footwear is presented on cantilevered shelves that jut out from the walls at irregular angles, as if frozen mid-stride. Each shelf is lined with a shock-absorbent material that subtly compresses under the weight of the shoe, a tactile detail that reinforces the theme of impact and rebound. Accessories are housed in clear acrylic boxes that are stacked and interlocked like building blocks, referencing the modularity of urban architecture. Throughout, the display systems avoid traditional vitrines and pedestals, instead integrating products into the architectural fabric of the space.

Brand Integration: Undercover's Subversive Edge

While the project is firmly rooted in Nike's performance heritage, it also pays homage to Jun Takahashi's Undercover label, known for its punk-inflected, subversive approach to fashion. This influence manifests in subtle, unexpected details: a wall of exposed concrete that has been partially painted over with a graffiti-like motif, a mannequin dressed in a Gyakusou jacket but posed in a defiant, almost confrontational stance, and a soundtrack that mixes ambient city noise with avant-garde electronic music. These elements prevent the space from feeling overly polished or commercial, injecting a raw energy that resonates with Undercover's cult following.

The branding itself is deliberately understated. Instead of large logos, the Gyakusou and Nike marks appear as small, etched metal plaques or are subtly woven into textile installations. This restraint reflects the collection's ethos: performance is not about loud declarations, but about quiet, consistent dedication. The design encourages visitors to discover the brand through the quality of the materials and the intelligence of the spatial experience, rather than through overt signage.

Educational Context: Learning by Doing at ISAD

This project was developed as part of the curriculum at ISAD—Istituto Superiore di Architettura e Design in Milan, an institution known for its practice-based approach to design education. Students were guided through the entire design process, from initial research and concept development to technical drawings and material specifications. The brief required them to consider not only aesthetics but also functionality, sustainability, and the commercial realities of retail design. Critiques from faculty and visiting professionals pushed students to refine their ideas and defend their design decisions.

The Gyakusou Nike Undercover Lab project exemplifies ISAD's commitment to preparing students for the complexities of real-world design challenges. By engaging with a high-profile collaboration between two iconic brands, students gained insight into how global design languages can be adapted to local contexts and how retail spaces can become powerful tools for brand storytelling. The project also underscores the school's location in Milan—a city synonymous with fashion and design—as a living laboratory for creative exploration.

Conclusion: A New Paradigm for Retail Experience

The Gyakusou Nike Undercover Lab shop design transcends the conventional boundaries of retail architecture, offering a holistic experience that engages the body, the senses, and the imagination. It demonstrates how a deep understanding of a brand's philosophy—rooted in the discipline of running and the aesthetics of the urban environment—can generate a spatial narrative that is both functional and poetic. The project stands as a testament to the power of design to transform commerce into culture, and to the role of educational institutions like ISAD in nurturing the next generation of visionary designers.

In an era where online shopping threatens the relevance of physical stores, projects like this offer a compelling counterargument: the store of the future is not a warehouse, but a stage for immersive, memorable experiences. The Gyakusou Nike Undercover Lab is not just a place to buy clothes; it is a place to feel the pulse of the city, to reconnect with the joy of movement, and to understand that design, at its best, is a form of poetry written in space and light.

Written by ISAD — School of Design in Milan