Published on 14 December 2025 by ISAD — School of Design in Milan

In the world of sportswear and high fashion, few collaborations have been as transformative as Nike’s Gyakusou line, created with Japanese designer Jun Takahashi of Undercover. This project, developed as part of the ISAD portfolio, reimagines the retail environment for this unique collection, merging performance-driven design with avant-garde aesthetics. The result is a lab-like space that challenges conventional notions of what a sports store can be, inviting visitors to experience the intersection of movement, technology, and art.

The Genesis of Gyakusou: Where Running Meets Avant-Garde

The Gyakusou collaboration began as a personal obsession for Jun Takahashi, an avid runner who sought to bring his distinctive design language to the world of running apparel. The name itself, meaning "wrong direction" or "reverse running" in Japanese, hints at the unconventional approach that defines the collection. Takahashi’s vision was not merely to create functional sportswear but to elevate it into a form of wearable art, where every seam, fabric choice, and silhouette tells a story of movement and introspection.

This philosophy extends naturally into the retail environment. The lab shop design concept takes inspiration from the idea of a runner’s laboratory—a place where ideas are tested, refined, and presented in their purest form. The space is not just a store; it is an immersive experience that mirrors the precision and creativity behind the Gyakusou line. By stripping away the noise of traditional retail, the design allows the products to speak for themselves, much like a gallery showcases its most important works.

Conceptual Framework: The Lab as a Metaphor for Innovation

The central metaphor of the lab is powerful in the context of design education and practice. In a laboratory, every element serves a purpose, and nothing is superfluous. This principle guided the spatial planning and material selection for the Gyakusou shop. The designers envisioned a space that feels both clinical and organic, where raw materials like concrete and steel are juxtaposed with softer, more tactile elements that echo the textiles of the clothing.

Lighting plays a crucial role in reinforcing this metaphor. Instead of uniform illumination, the space employs targeted spotlights that mimic the focused attention of a scientist examining a specimen. This creates dramatic pools of light and shadow, drawing the eye to specific products and creating a sense of discovery as visitors move through the space. The overall effect is one of controlled intensity—a fitting tribute to the discipline and passion that running demands.

"The Gyakusou lab is not just a shop; it is a manifesto for a new kind of retail—where function and emotion coexist in perfect tension."

Spatial Dynamics: Flow, Movement, and the Runner’s Journey

Understanding the psychology of movement was essential to the design. A runner’s experience is linear yet rhythmic—a series of strides that build momentum and culminate in a state of flow. The shop’s layout mirrors this journey, guiding visitors along a carefully curated path that unfolds in stages. The entrance acts as a threshold, a moment of transition from the outside world into the focused realm of Gyakusou. From there, the space opens up into distinct zones, each corresponding to a different aspect of the collection.

One zone might focus on the technical aspects of the apparel, with displays that highlight innovative fabrics and construction techniques. Another might emphasize the aesthetic dimension, presenting the garments as sculptural objects. Throughout, the circulation is intuitive, encouraging visitors to move naturally from one area to the next without feeling rushed or constrained. This sense of ease is crucial; it mirrors the effortless grace of a well-trained runner and makes the shopping experience feel like a form of active meditation.

Materiality and Texture: A Dialogue Between Raw and Refined

The material palette of the Gyakusou lab is deliberately restrained, allowing the products to take center stage while still conveying a strong identity. Polished concrete floors provide a cool, hard surface that contrasts with the warmth of natural wood accents. Steel shelving systems evoke the utilitarian aesthetic of industrial laboratories, yet their precise detailing elevates them beyond mere function. These materials are not chosen for their cost-effectiveness alone; they are selected for their ability to communicate the brand’s core values—durability, precision, and a certain raw beauty.

Texture is used strategically to create moments of surprise. A wall of rough-hewn stone might sit adjacent to a smooth, lacquered display case, creating a tactile dialogue that invites touch. Fabrics from the collection are sometimes integrated into the architecture itself, draped over forms or suspended from the ceiling, blurring the line between product and environment. This approach transforms the space into a sensory experience, where every surface tells a story of craftsmanship and intent.

Lighting Design: Sculpting Space with Shadow and Glow

Light is arguably the most powerful tool in the designer’s arsenal, and in the Gyakusou lab, it is wielded with surgical precision. The lighting scheme is layered, combining ambient, task, and accent lighting to create depth and hierarchy. Ambient light provides a soft, even glow that ensures the space never feels oppressive. Task lighting illuminates specific areas where customers might examine products closely, such as fitting rooms or detail tables. Accent lighting, however, is where the drama lies—narrow beams that carve out individual garments from the darkness, making each piece feel like a precious artifact.

The interplay of light and shadow also serves a practical purpose: it guides attention and controls the pace of exploration. Brightly lit areas draw visitors forward, while darker pockets offer moments of pause and reflection. This rhythm mirrors the ebb and flow of a run, where periods of intense focus alternate with moments of recovery. In this way, the lighting design becomes an invisible narrator, shaping the emotional arc of the visitor’s journey through the space.

Display Strategies: Presenting Performance as Art

Traditional sportswear retail often relies on dense racks and overwhelming product displays, but the Gyakusou lab takes a radically different approach. Here, garments are presented with the reverence typically reserved for fine art. Mannequins are used sparingly, and when they appear, they are posed in dynamic, almost sculptural stances that suggest motion. Shelving is minimal, with generous spacing between items, allowing each piece to be seen in its entirety without visual clutter.

Interactive elements are subtly integrated to enhance engagement without detracting from the aesthetic. Touchscreen displays provide detailed information about the technical features of the clothing, from moisture-wicking properties to reflective details. These digital touchpoints are designed to be unobtrusive, blending seamlessly into the environment. The result is a display strategy that educates and inspires, turning the act of browsing into a form of discovery.

Brand Integration: Weaving the Gyakusou Narrative

A successful retail environment must do more than house products; it must tell a story. The Gyakusou lab achieves this by weaving the brand’s narrative into every aspect of the design. The color palette, dominated by muted tones of gray, black, and off-white, reflects the understated elegance of the collection. Typography is used sparingly but effectively, with clean, sans-serif fonts that echo the precision of the design. Even the scent of the space is considered—a subtle, clean aroma that evokes freshness and vitality.

The integration of the Nike and Undercover identities is handled with care. Rather than competing for attention, the two brands are presented as complementary forces, united by a shared commitment to innovation. Logos are present but not overwhelming, appearing as subtle marks rather than loud declarations. This restraint is a testament to the maturity of the collaboration and the confidence of the design team, who understand that true brand power lies in coherence, not volume.

Conclusion: A Blueprint for Future Retail Experiences

The Gyakusou Nike Undercover Lab Shop Design represents a bold step forward in the evolution of retail. By treating the store as a laboratory for ideas, the designers have created a space that is both functional and poetic, where the act of shopping becomes an act of discovery. This project, developed within the ISAD portfolio, demonstrates the power of design education to push boundaries and challenge conventions. It serves as a reminder that the best retail environments are not just places to buy things—they are places to feel, to think, and to be inspired.

For students of design, this project offers valuable lessons in the integration of concept, material, and experience. It shows that even the most utilitarian spaces can be elevated through thoughtful design, and that the line between commerce and culture is more porous than we often assume. As the worlds of fashion, sport, and art continue to converge, the Gyakusou lab stands as a beacon of what is possible when creativity is given free rein.

Written by ISAD — School of Design in Milan